the nasrid palaces at the alhambra in granada spain
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In this post, I’m sharing our 2 day Granada itinerary. 

Granada was the first stop of the Southern Spain leg of our two week trip through Spain and Portugal (itinerary overview here) this past May. 

Located in the Andalusian region of Southern Spain, Granda is known for its rich Moorish history and the majestic Alhambra, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The staggering Sierra Nevada mountains span the backdrop of the city. 

Granada is now one of my favorite cities in Spain and absolutely deserves a spot on any Spain itinerary (and certainly any Southern Spain itinerary!). 

The city is both compact and complex, rich in both Spanish and Moorish cultural influences. The historic old town in the center of the city is vibrant and alluring, the kind of place that makes you wish you had more time to just soak it all in. 

The main draw of Granada is the Alhambra palace, but you’ll want to make sure to allow plenty of time to meander and explore the old town and Albaicín neighborhood. 

view of granada from the alhambra
a pink building in granada
granada view of alhambra
Alcazaba at the alhambra in granada spain

In today’s guide, I’ll share some information about how to get to Granada and where to stay in the city. I’ll also share my opinion on how many days you should allocate to this beautiful city. 

Then, I’ll walk through an easy itinerary and self-guided walking tour. Finally, I’ll share a handful of important tips for visiting the Alhambra (including a few specifically for those traveling with kids!). 

Check out my 2 day Granada itinerary. 

tyler nuss on top of the Alcazaba in granada spain

The Perfect 2 Day Granada Itinerary

How to get to Granada 

You can travel to Granada via Spain’s train system, car, or by flying into the Federico García Lorca Granada-Jaén Airport (GRX) airport, just a 20 minute drive from the city’s historic center. We flew directly from Palma to Granada which was very easy. 

Madrid and Barcelona both have direct flights to and from Granada. In my research, I also saw a few direct flights from Paris as well as Tenerife (FUN!). 

ruth nuss in the palace of carlos v at the alhambra in granada, andalusia spain

Do you need a rental car in Granada? 

With its charming alleyways of the Albaicín neighborhood and dreamy lookout points, Granada is a dream to walk around. Even the long walk up to the Alhambra is gorgeous (we’ll get to that later in the post). Because of how the city is situated, you will end up walking quite a bit in Granada, but, trust me, you won’t mind. 

The only reason you would need a car in Granada is if you are road tripping through Southern Spain and need a car to get to your next destination. We flew into Granada and rented a car at the airport which we used to drive to Ronda and then Sevilla. This road trip was easy to execute and a fabulous way to experience Southern Spain.

Parking in Granada, like any city, can be a little tricky but is totally doable. There is public parking available in the historic city center as well as up at the Alhambra. We purposefully booked an Airbnb with convenient parking which I will link below. 

Where to stay in Granada 

In general, you’ll want to stay somewhere in the old town area. Part of the Granada experience is meandering and hopping in and out of tapas bars. You’ll want to stay close to the action to get the full effect. 

We stayed in this two bedroom Airbnb which I would absolutely recommend. It was centrally located, extremely spacious and clean, and, as mentioned, had a parking spot in the garage below the building. We did have to coordinate with the host to park our car and get it out of the garage the next morning, but it was definitely worth it. 

When to visit Granada 

The resounding theme through all of my blog posts from this trip is that May was a perfect time to go. We experienced nearly perfect weather in every location, and Southern Spain was in FULL BLOOM. 

I can’t recommend visiting Spain in the spring enough, and Granada was no exception. The weather was perfect, and the city was bustling but not overrun. We were surprised and delighted to see the Sierra Nevadas still had snow which made for a stunning backdrop to the Alhambra. 

I think Granada would be fun any time of the year, although I would probably avoid the hot summer months, especially if you are traveling with small kids. The shoulder season (April-May or September-October) would be ideal. 

roses in the generalife garden at the alhambra, granada itinerary

How many days to spend in Granada 

Many tourists make the mistake of day-tripping to Granada and only visiting the Alhambra before moving on, but I think Granada deserves a proper stay. 

In my opinion, there are two big “to-do’s” when it comes to Granada: the first is the city center itself, best experienced via self-guided walking tour with plenty of stops for tapas and churros. The second is, of course, visiting the Alhambra which takes several hours to cover. 

You can definitely fit both of these things in one full day, but you might consider spreading them out over two.

tyler nuss walking in the Albaicín district of granada spain

For example: We spent only one night in Granada but spread our time exploring over two days. We landed in Granada at noon on our first day and spent the afternoon and evening doing our little walking tour of the old town and Albaicín neighborhood, stopping for playgrounds, coffee, tapas, and churros, as one does. The following morning, we visited the Alhambra and drove out of the city around 1pm. 

Alternatively, you could spend two nights in Granada and use that full day in the middle to visit the Alhambra and explore the old town and Albaicín. 

I’ll also note here that if your itinerary allows for it, spending 3-4 days in Granada would certainly be worth your time. It really is such a beautiful, unique city, and I could see how having more time to relax and take everything in would only add to the experience.

Granada is a compact, walkable city that you can see the best of in a day or two, but it would be a wonderful place to plant yourself for a few days. 

Is Granada kid friendly? 

Truthfully, we found the whole of Spain to be extremely kid friendly. Everyone was so sweet to our kids in every place we visited. Restaurants are laid-back, and the slower, more relaxed pace of Spanish culture makes being there with kids very easy. 

We had so much fun in Granada with our kids. And while there wasn’t an over-abundance of parks (I did link one below), they loved exploring the Albaicín and the Alhambra. 

I will say that we did spend a lot of time prepping the girls for the Alhambra and talked about how we needed to be respectful to the other visitors. It’s a long morning and that is hard for any kid, but they did well! 

The old town of Granada was flat and stroller friendly, but the Albaicín did have a ton of steps. If you have a baby with you, I suggest using a carrier when you explore the Albaicín neighborhood. 

a courtyard in the alhambra nasrid palaces

2 Day Granada itinerary

For the purposes of this itinerary, we’ll assume that you are going to spread your time out over two days. Let’s say you arrive in Granada in the morning, in which case I recommend using that first afternoon and evening to explore and get acquainted with the charm of Granada’s city center. The following morning, plan to visit the Alhambra bright and early. 

Self Guided Walking Tour of Granada 

I’ll start our 2 day Granada itinerary with the walking tour portion. 

After you get settled into your hotel or Airbnb, it’s time to explore. Grab an espresso or cold brew from Despierto Specialty Coffee and then make your way to the Granada Cathedral to begin our walking tour. 

If you have kids with you, make sure to bookmark this playground. We have always found that letting our kids get their wiggles out goes a long way on a big day of walking around a new city. 

For lunch, make a reservation at Los Manueles for a traditional Spanish lunch. In Spain, lunch is the biggest, heaviest meal of the day. We had the meatballs, paella, and croquetas, and everything was fabulous. 

After lunch, head to the Plaza de Bib-Rambla. Grab a table at Alhambra Churrería and order yourself some churros con chocolate–it’s the right thing to do. 

a beautiful building on a granada itinerary

As you continue your walk, keep in mind that historical context matters here. Spain was under Moorish rule for over 700 years (a fact that I myself did not learn until I studied in Spain in college–classic!). As Christian forces conquered most of Northern Spain, many Muslims fled south and congregated in Granada. The Granada we see today is a fascinating mashup of cultures: massive Catholic Cathedrals on one street and the Arab Baths (Hamman El Bañuelo) on the next. 

a white building in the Albaicín in granada

Wander the Alcaicería, a bazaar of narrow streets and tiny shops. 

Make your way to the Plaza Nueva, where you can stop for a drink and tapas (check out La Cueva de 1900) and begin to see the base of the Alhambra.

Head to the Albaicín neighborhood in the evening. From the Plaza Nueva, head up to the San Nicolas viewpoint. There are a lot of small pathways and streets that you can use to get up there. The whole point of the Albaicín, in my opinion, is to get lost. You’ll make it to the viewpoint eventually, ha! 

granada itinerary

For dinner with an incredible view, reserve a table at either Carmen Mirador De Aixa or Las Tomasas. We ate at Carmen Mirador which is famous for their tuna. We has such a lovely meal here, and the views of the Alhambra were stunning. 

view of the alhambra in granada spain
Yes, that is a salt flight.

My tips for visiting the Alhambra 

The Alhambra, a Moorish palace and fortress complex, spans over 26 acres. The complex was first constructed in the 13th century under the rule of the Nasrid dynasty and is widely recognized as one of the best preserved Islamic monuments in the world. 

The Alhambra consists of a few main areas: the Alcabaza, the Nasrid Palaces, and the Generalife gardens and palace. Each area is included with the price of admission and is well worth visiting. The print on this map is small, but it’s helpful for getting the lay of the land. 

1. Book your tickets as far in advance as possible 

Okay, this is serious. The Alhambra is one of Spain’s most popular destinations, drawing in around 3 million visitors per year. Tickets are very limited and sell out months in advance. I read several forums with horror stories of travelers waiting too long to reserve their tickets and missing out. For our visit, we booked our tickets the second we knew for sure which days we were going to be in Granada. 

You can buy tickets to the Alhambra here–scroll down and select “Alhambra General.”  General admission is 19.09€ for adults, 12.73€  for minors 15-18, and is free for children under 11. 

If you are traveling with kids between the ages of 3-11, you need to reserve their tickets at the same time you reserve yours, even though they are free. If you are traveling with a baby under 2 years old, you can pick up a ticket for them at the ticket office the day of your visit. 

ruth nuss and her daughter standing in front a window in the nasrid palaces in granada spain

2. Reserve the first slot of the day 

    If there is one thing about Tyler, it’s that he’s hauling us out of bed at the crack of dawn when we visit places like this. It’s always annoying, and it’s always worth it. 

    When you book your tickets to the Alhambra, you have to select a time slot. We highly, highly recommend choosing the opening slot of the day: 8:30am. I know, ouch, but hear me out: our first hour at the Alhambra was SO MAGICAL. Walking through the Nasrid palaces with hardly anyone around made our experience so much more memorable. The grounds and palaces get more and more crowded as the morning goes on. 

    ruth nuss and her daughter at the alhambra in granada

    3. If you need coffee or food before, go to Sur Coffee Corner 

      If you need to eat or have a coffee in the morning before your visit, head to Sur Coffee Corner. Not many cafes open early in Granada, but this one does. Head here at 8am sharp to give yourself plenty of time to walk across the city to make it for your time slot. Our drinks and sandwiches here were amazing and the exact thing we needed to fuel up before our long morning. 

      4. If you have a car with you, park by the Nasrid Palaces

        The only reason you should drive to the Alhambra is if you, like us, are planning to leave the city immediately following your visit. If that’s the case, I’m linking the parking spot we parked in here for you. From there, enter the Alhambra through the Justice Gate for easy access to the Nasrid Palaces.

        Alternatively, there is more parking available near the main entrance which is a good back up plan. Just ensure you have time to enter and walk down the Nasrid Palaces (10-15 min walk).

        5. Begin your visit to the Alhambra at the Nasrid Palaces 

          The reason I linked the obscure parking spot above rather than the lot at the main entrance is because we recommend starting your visit at the Nasrid Palaces. This was a tip that I found on a random Reddit thread, and this was HUGE. 

          Most travelers walk through the Nasrid Palaces at the end or somewhere in the middle of their visit, but we had such an incredible experience doing this first. These palaces are jaw-droppingly stunning, and it felt like we had them to ourselves. It was amazing. 

          ruth nuss and her daughter looking at a tule wall at the nasrid palaces
          alhambra nasrid palaces
          two arched windows in the nasrid palaces  in a 2 day granada itinerary

          6. Then, explore the Alcazaba

            After walking through the Nasrid Palaces, loop back to walk through the Palace of Carlos V.

            palace of king carlos v at the alhambra
            view from Alcazaba fortress in granada

            Then, head across the square to the Alcazaba fortress. Take your time exploring and taking in the insane views of Granada from every vantage point. 

            climbing the stairs at the alhambra palace in granada spain
            two girls sitting on the Alcazaba fortress

            7. Pack snacks and water and take a break in the square under the Alcazaba 

              I definitely recommend packing snacks and water for your visit to the Alhambra which you can eat at the square below the Alcazaba. I also happen to know that the tortilla española from the snack bar on the square is surprisingly satisfying. 

              8. Wrap up your visit at the Generalife, also known as “garden of the architect,” 

                Once you’ve finished up at the Alcazaba, it’s time to head towards the Generalife gardens and palace. This is such a delightful walk and some of the prettiest landscaping I’ve ever seen. 

                ruth nuss in a rose garden at the alhambra
                the gardens at the alhambra
                ruth nuss standing against a wall of jasmine in granada spain

                Is the Alhambra stroller friendly?

                For those visiting the Alhambra with small kids, take note that strollers are not allowed in the Nasrid Palaces, the Alcabaza fortress, or the Generalife palace. They are, however, allowed in the gardens. 

                You can check your stroller in the coatroom in the office adjacent to the Palace of Charles V. They so have baby carrier loaners available at the coat check. 

                If you have a toddler or a baby who is not content in a baby carrier, visiting the Alhambra might be difficult but not impossible! It’s just a lot of ground to cover, but if you take your time and aren’t in a rush, I think it would be fine. Basically, if you’ve already gone to the trouble of traveling to Spain with a baby, there’s no reason you can’t have a nice time at the Alhambra too. 

                generalife gardens at the alhambra

                Granada 1 Day Itinerary (If you have less time) 

                If you only have one full day in Granada, I highly recommend sticking to my advice for the Alhmabra and go first thing in the morning. Then, you can explore the rest of the city and enjoy the tapas scene in the afternoon and evening. 

                Thank you so much for checking out my Granada itinerary! I hope it was helpful, and please let me know how your trip goes. 

                On that note…

                Our 2 week Spain and Portugal itinerary 

                Mallorca with kids + 3 day itinerary

                1 day in Valldemossa

                Our 3 day Lisbon itinerary 

                Zoe Traveler Stroller review

                Everything I wore in Spain and Portugal 

                For more travel guides and inspiration, click here. For family travel tips and advice, click here. 

                The Perfect 2 Day Granada Itinerary

                Spain

                I write about travel, books, and beauty (and everything else, kind of). I live in San Diego with my husband Tyler and our two little girls, Charlotte and Emmie. 

                I'm Ruth

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